I’d Rather Be Surfing…Somewhere in Cali
Photos: Brent Lieberman
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I have been coming out to Abalone Reef since 1967, and the one thing that I have learned about this spot is, you just never know what you will find from day to day. In 1967 part of the road in was still dirt. Its still a very wild place. Today on the ride in Eric and I saw a beautiful four point Buck next to the road, just grazing. So, we of course stopped and watched him for a few minutes, and he didn’t seem worried one bit, he was still eating as we drove off. Its not that rare to see wild pigs grubbing on the beach.
The walk in is still long, and during the Winter at high tide, some times dangerous. Last Winter, I literally got pinned up against the cliff and the ocean surged half way up my back and almost sucked me and all my photographic gear away, luckily my pack is water resistant, and I was somehow able to keep my grip, and I didn’t suffer any damage to my stuff, just my pride. I turned and told the two guys walking in with me, who were also pinned against the cliffs (in their wetsuits) that was it and I was turning back, and they urged me on, and I was happy I did, as the waves were great.
Today Eric and I weren’t disappointed either. There was a bit of South Swell, some off shore winds, great sun and colors, so I was really stoked to be a photographer, those elements make my work so much easier. Today’s crew consisted of; The Knowles Brothers; Eric and Jason, Rod Herman, Alan, Blake Reynolds, Randy Stoker,Tony Romosanta, Mike Kurilich, Jake Chancer, Mitch Dallas, John Moberg and few others that made the hike in to reap the fruits that Abalone Reef sometimes dishes up. I hope you enjoy looking at these images, and remember what I always say “Stay Stoked and Stay Forever Young….Da Lieb” Aloha Nui Loa.
Please, if you know surfers in this gallery, add there names into the comments below so that they can more easily find their photos! Shaka Surfwanderer