Sometimes, the best wave of your life happens on accident. It happens when the tide is high, your favorite break isn’t really working, and all your buddies laugh at you when you tell them that, “I think I’m just going to stay here and paddle out and get a few.”
This picture makes me happy every time I see it because the setup is so beautiful. I have no idea what happened on this wave, or what frames were to come seconds after this frame, but I don’t really care, and I don’t want to see.
You see, this wave here, is one of the best waves of my life, right now, as I’m sitting here, beginning to mindsurf it’s possibilities. It’s the best wave of my life because no one else is out, it’s oily glassy, and nothing is telling me what is going to happen. Yet, at the very moment of this frame, nothing has happened yet, in my mind, or in reality, that takes any control over my creative ingenuity. I am in control, because now that the surfer has paddled me into this wave, the rest is mine to discover.
I think that the most powerful feeling in the entire world is the feeling of having power. Moreover, what is power, but the power to choose? When someone tells you what you can and can’t do, you arepowerless. More than any other feeling in the world, the feeling of having no control is the feeling of being locked in the inner-jails of your mind.
When we speak of freedom, isn’t freedom the ability to think and dream freely, in an artistic world of knowing and unknowing space in which only we create and we decide on?
So please, enjoy the open space of this canvas that photographer Javier Delgado has created for us. For anything is possible on this wave, in your mind, that you say so.