Photos: Brent Lieberman
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BLUE MOON SURF
Leaving the house this morning at 6AM, that big ole Blue Moon was still very bright in the black sky as I drove out to check the surf at Robots. It somewhat of a long ride, so I had plenty of time to reflect how crappy it was yesterday when Eric Knowles and I went out there at the crack of dawn. Eric didn’t even want to surf yesterday which is extreme for “Da Brah.” The waves were super small, broken up by the wind, breaking right on shore and just plain hideous.
So this morning I kept telling myself, well, the buoys have jumped up and the swell must certainly have arrived? Driving through miles of vineyards, up and down small mountains, through miles of beans, hay, oats, walnuts and the such, I just kept thinking, boy, I hope I don’t get skunked two days in a row! Making the climb up one last large mountain range, you can get a glimpse of the ocean from about 8 miles off, seeing it sunny out there was a good sign. Having driven out to Robots literally maybe a thousand times since 1967, you just never know, but sunny is always a good thing. Cresting the last final hill to see the waves, and, I’m stoked, I see plenty of waves, slight off shore winds and only three guys out. I’m on it. I get my 50 pound pack on, grab my tripod and make the 20 minute hike out there.
I wasn’t disappointed. After an hour or so, a whole bunch of my friends showed up, so, for me, its was a quite enjoyable shoot. It wasn’t perfect. but after yesterday, the surf was really pretty, my Bud’s were all charging and everyone seemed to have a great time.
I hope you enjoy seeing what I saw today. Always remember what I say; “Stay Stoked and Stay Forever Young…..Da Lieb” Aloha Nui Loa.